Hiking the Travers-Sabine Circuit
Approaching Upper Travers Hut after a long day in the valley.
Perched under towering peaks at the head of the Travers Valley sits Upper Travers Hut – one of the most picturesque huts in Nelson Lakes National Park. A long walk up the valley will be well-rewarded with incredible alpine views - do the mahi, get the treats!
Distance: 29km (from Kerr Bay)
Elevation: +920 -182
The track begins at Kerr Bay in St Arnaud. There are a couple of options to break up the distance: overnighting at Lakehead or Coldwater Hut, or catching the water taxi to the Lakehead Hut jetty ($40 one way).
Expect very mellow valley walking to start, as you meander through grassy meadows and follow the river south. The terrain is the usual rocky and rooty forest track, with a very gradual gradient, some epic swing bridges and several side-stream crossings along the way.
After 15km you’ll reach John Tait Hut – a cute wee shelter with views of the mountains. From here it’s another 3 hours to Upper Travers, with the track becoming steeper, rockier, and boggier. But Upper Travers is absolutely worth the extra effort!
Take the optional side trip to Travers Falls, just a short scramble down a steep bank (leave your pack at the top). Churning falls cascading into a deep turquoise pool, surrounded by lush, ancient jungle – this place feels magical!
After a final push, the bush opens into a clearing and your first glimpse of the hut nestled between Mount Travers and Kehu Peak is revealed. The hut is a large 24-bunker, with 2 bunk rooms separate from the living area. It’s super toasty inside (even without the woodburner cranking) and the massive windows overlook the valley beyond. The views up to a snow-capped Mount Travers are astounding, only beaten by the view from the loos! Stick around for long enough and you might be lucky enough to meet the resident kea – they love to frolic on the deck in the mornings. The rushing river nearby is perfect for a refreshing dip after a long day on trail.
Though usually visited on the Travers-Sabine circuit (80km), I’d also recommend basing yourself at Upper Travers for a few nights to explore the incredible alpine environment. Travers Saddle, Rainbow Pass, Kehu Peak, Begley Saddle – there is so much to see!
